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We are always happy
to update our list of Questions and Answers. If you have
a question about Empire, gas heating or any of our products,
please contact us.
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1 - General Questions
Do you sell directly to consumers?
You can buy Empire and Superb products through your local dealer who can help you determine the right heating source for your application.
Is there a dealer in my area, so I can see the unit?
Please use the Dealer Locator to find the name and location of your closest dealer.
How do Empire units compare to other brands?
Empire has the broadest gas space heating available in the world. Our product line is superior in quality to any on the market. Many models have unique features that are not available from other companies. Always buy an appliance certified by a listed 3rd party agency, such as the American Gas Association or UL.
Can you send me a brochure on your products?
Yes! You can call, fax or e-mail your request to us Or you can download the specifications sheets from the relevant product sections on our web site by clicking on "Download Specs: PDF #KB" in that section.
How much gas will my model use?
Gas consumption can be calculated using a general formula for all models. This formula is for estimating purposes only and you should contact your local dealer to discuss specific applications.
Which units operate without electricity?
Many Empire hearth products and residential heating systems operate without electricity, and can heat your home in the event of a temporary power outage. Even systems with optional electric blowers will still provide heat in a power outage, though the blower will not operate.
All our hearth products, except direct-vent IP models, operate without electricity.
The following residential heating systems also operate without electricity: All vent-free heaters (SR, VF and BF models), Direct Vent Wall Furnaces (DV210, DV215, DV25, DV35, MV-120, MV-130, MV-145), Gravity Wall Furnaces (GWT Models), Floor Furnaces, and Room Heaters (RH Models).
Can I use this unit for my primary heat source?
All vented units can be used as a primary heat source depending on the size of the area to be heated. A vent-free product is recommended to be used as a supplemental heat source only.
What is the warranty on your products?
The warranty length is stated on the product spec sheets and in our Warranty Registration section. To download the product spec sheets, select the product you are interested in on our web site and click on Download Specs: PDF #KB in that section. Or view the Warranty Terms document in our Warranty Registration section.
What type of gas can be used?
All Empire heaters operate on Natural or LP (liquefied petroleum) gas. You must specify on your order what type of gas you plan to use.
Are vent-free heaters safe?
YES! Since 1980, vent-free gas heating appliances have been equipped with a unique safety pilot system called an oxygen depletion sensor, or ODS. The ODS is the proven technological innovation that revolutionized the safety of vent-free gas heating appliances. In 1995, the Vent-Free Gas Products Alliance of the Gas Appliance Manufacturer Association (GAMA) commissioned a study on indoor air quality as it relates to vent-free gas heating products in the home. The results proved that vent-free gas heating products meet and exceed the most current and applicable nationally recognized standards and recommendations for the indoor air quality. For more information on vent-free gas products, visit www.ventfreealliance.org/consumer.htm.
Do vent-free heaters take all of the oxygen out of the room?
All products which burn gas and draw combustion air from the living space or "take oxygen" from that space, (Gas ranges are vent-free units). The owners manuals on our products and your local code official will inform about the need for make-up combustion air.
A typical well-insulated home still has sufficient air movement to completely exchange indoor air for fresh outdoor air several times per hour. If this air exchange did not take place, normal human breathing would eventually take all the oxygen from that space.
This normal air exchange provides more than enough make-up air for the vent-free heater.
Vent-free heaters have an ODS or Oxygen Depletion Sensor which automatically shuts off the gas supply in the rare event that the oxygen level in the room falls to 18%. This is well above unsafe levels as established by ANSI (American National Standards Institute).
How much moisture is produced by the vent-free heater?
Vent-free units when used as supplemental heating devices generally do not add any more water to a living space than the bathroom shower does in a normal day. Specifically, for every 1,000 Btus, the vent-free unit will create 1 ounce of moisture per hour.
Can you send me an instruction manual for an old model number?
We do have owner's manuals available on all units that have been manufactured by Empire Comfort Systems.
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2 - Fireplace Products
Can I use my existing chimney?
Your existing chimney can be used for some of our vented products. It is generally better for the appliance if the chimney has a liner installed. Please consult your dealer or installer for definitive information. Owners manuals for Empire units are available upon request for you and your installer to help with venting and other installation questions before ordering the unit.
Empire vent-free units are certified to be used with the chimney damper open or closed. Again, the chimney, if used to vent combustion products should be inspected and cleared for operation by your installer.
Is a floor pad required with the cast iron stove?
A floor pad is required under the cast iron stove when it is installed on carpeting, light tile or any combustible material other than wood floors.
Are the logs included with the fireboxes?
The logs are included in our fireplace systems, such as our vent-free Vail Series and our direct-vent Tahoe Series.
Vent-Free Fireboxes (our Breckenridge Series) require a separate vent-free certified burner and log set. While the Vail and Tahoe include their own dedicate log sets, the Breckenridge lets you select one of 10 unique log sets -- aged oak, charred oak, birch, split oak, deepwoods oak, sassafras, weathered oak, and three colors of flame art decorator logs.
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3 - Space Heating Products
Can the unit be converted from LP to natural gas?
All vented units can be converted from LP to natural, or from natural to LP. Empire has kits available for the conversion.
What size heater do I need to heat my room?
There are many variables in determining the correct amount of heat. You should consult your local dealer/installer who can, firsthand, see the space to be heated and determine a size based on the type of construction, floor plan, and climate.
How big is the unit (width, height, depth)?
To find specifications on Empire products, select the product you are interested in on our web site and click on Download Specs: PDF #KB in that section.
Does the venting come with the DV models?
Venting is included on the following DV models:
DV-210, DV-215, DV-25, DV-55, DVC-35, DV-20E, DV-40E, DV-55E, MV-120, MV-130, MV145
Most units have vent extension kits available.
Which units require electricity?
Units that require electricity to operate are:
High-Efficient Direct Vent Wall Furnace, Vented Counterflow Wall Furnace, Direct Vent Counterflow Wall Furnace and Industrial Unit Heaters.
Which units come with blowers?
Most units have an optional blower available. Blowers are standard on the following units:
Empire High-Efficient Direct Vent Wall Furnace
DV-20E, DV-40E, DV-55E
Empire Vented Counterflow Wall Furnace
DVC-35, DV-55, FAW-40, FAW-55
Empire Vented Room Heaters
RH-50B, RH-65B
Empire Industrial Heaters
Does the blower increase efficiency?
The blowers designed as an integral part of the unit generally help a unit achieve a relatively high efficiency. (DV55 is 77% efficient AFUE).
Optional or accessory blowers are used to move the warmed air around only, they do not increase the unit`s efficiency.
Can I use a remote control and a wall thermostat together?
It would depend on the type of unit you have. In general, both are offered as alternative controllers, they can be combined. Please consult with your owners manual or your dealer.
How far can the thermostat be from the unit?
A unit that requires electricity to operate generally has a 24-volt thermostat as its controller. This thermostat can be a long way from the unit without worrying about wire size. For example, on 20 gauge or normal thermostat wire, the thermostat could be 50, 75, and if need be 100 feet away from the heating unit.
A unit that operates off of a millivolt wall thermostat is generally limited due to the theater being able to produce 500 millivolts. 16 gauge wire is recommended up to about 20 feet and 14 gauge after that up to about 35 feet maximum (the thin wire and relatively long wire runs add resistance to the millivolt system which can keep the control valve from operating because of not enough voltage left at the valve).
Do you stock parts for old units?
Empire tries to keep parts on all units up to 20 years from last production. They can be purchased through your local dealer.
How long will these units last (life expectancy)?
We have records that with proper maintenance and care, the units will last 10-20 years.
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4 - Trouble-shooting Tips
Direct Vent, Self-Generating Wall Furnace (no electricity required)
DV-210-SG, DV-215-SG, DV-25-SG, DV-35-SG, CIDV-30, MV-120, MV-130, MV-145.
1. The pilot flame is yellow:
a. There may be obstruction at the pilot orifice. Clean pilot orifice
2. The pilot and main burner go out during normal operation:
a. Check millivolts. (See owner’s manual for instructions)
b. Check for proper size of the pilot flame.
c. Check for a defective or weak thermopile.
d. Check input pressure and reduce as needed.
e. The cover on the pilot lighting hole must be airtight.
(Is the gasket in good condition?)
f. Check for a tight fit of air and flue tubes at both ends of the vent assembly. Make sure there is no obstruction around the vent that would prevent the wind from hitting the entire vent equally.
3. Thermostat does not turn the main burner on:
a. Check wiring.
b. Check all millivolt readings.
c. Check for spider webs in the main burner orifice.
4. System Check:
A millivolt meter is required to check the system.
Millivolt readings should be:
a. Across the thermopile terminals, 400 – 450 millivolts
with thermostat OFF.
b. Across the thermopile terminals, 150 – 250 millivolts
with thermostat ON.
Classic Cast Iron Stove – Direct Vent (no electricity required)
CIDV-30 Only
Attention: All vent runs must have a total minimum VERTICAL rise of two feet somewhere in the venting run. If the vent run is directly behind the appliance, you must attach a Simpson Dura-Vent 36” snorkel, part number SD-981 on the exterior of the building.
1. The pilot and main burner extinguish while in operation:
a. No LP (Propane) in tank. Check LP (Propane) tank. Refill fuel tank if needed.
b. Inner vent pipe leaking exhaust gases back into system. Check for leaks.
c. Glass too loose, gasket leaks in corners after usage. Be certain glass assembly is installed correctly and tighten corner.
d. Horizontal vent improperly pitched. The horizontal vent cap should slope down only enough to prevent any water from entering the unit. The maximum downward slope is ¼ inch.
e. Bad thermopile or thermocouple. Replace if necessary
f. Improper vent cap installation. Check for proper installation and freedom from debris or blockage.
2. Glass soot:
a. Flame impingement on logs. Adjust the log set so that the flame does not impinge on it. Make sure the log pins are sitting in the correct place.
b. Improper air shutter adjustment. Adjust the air shutter.
3. Flame lifts off the main burner:
a. Insufficient oxygen being supplied. Check to make sure the vent cap is installed properly and is free of debris. Make sure the vent system joints are tight and have no leaks.
Check to make sure that no material has been placed at the burner base.
Be sure the glass is tightened properly on the unit, particularly on the top corners.
Direct Vent Counterflow Wall Furnace (electricity required)
DVC-35-SPP, DV-55-SPP
1. If the furnace fails to function on initial installation, it is advisable to re-check the following:
a. 115 volts to the junction box.
b. Inlet gas pressure.
c. The 24 volt system.
2. The main gas valve does not open when the thermostat is turned to on:
a. Check for 24 volts to valve by removing one wire and touching to the SAME TERMINAL it was on. Terminals
should have a light spark.
DO NOT SHORT ACROSS TERMINALS, AS IT WILL BURN OUT THE WALL THERMOSTAT.
b. Thermostat wires at the wall may be shorted, so check for a faulty thermostat.
CAUTION: Label all wires prior to disconnection when servicing the controls. Wiring errors can cause improper and dangerous operation. Verify proper operation after servicing.
Vented, Self-Generating Wall Furnace (no electricity required)
Vented Counterflow Wall Furnace (electricity required)
Vented, Self-Generating Wall Furnaces
GWT-25, GWT-35, GWT-50
Vented Counterflow Wall Furnaces
FAW-40-SPP, FAW-55-SPP
1. This furnace is equipped with a manual reset vent safety switch. The manual reset vent safety switch will
cause gas flow to the main burner to “shut off” due to improper venting or a blocked flue. To reset the manual reset vent safety switch:
a. Remove the outer casing.
b. Depress the manual reset button. The manual reset vent safety switch is located on the draft diverter.
c. Replace the outer casing.
2. If the manual reset vent safety switch continues to “shut off” the gas flow to the main burner, a qualified
service person must be contacted to inspect for improper venting, blockage in the vent pipe or the manual reset vent safety switch for being defective.
Floor Furnaces, Self-Generating (no electricity required)
3588, 5088, 7088
1. If problems are encountered on the initial installation, the following should be checked:
a. Is the unit equipped for the gas being used?
b. Are all of the wires connected to the gas valve properly?
c. Is the venting system functioning? Check for spillage at the diverter.
d. Is the gas inlet pressure proper? Read instructions for minimum pressure.
2. This floor furnace cannot be expected to function properly if exposed to wind as found when installed in a house supported by pillars (open foundation). The wind is most harmful if it can go beneath the front of the draft diverter and produces a pressure directly on the outlet of the chamber. This wind can result in pilot outage and a reduction of millivolts, causing the valve not to open.
3. Good operation of this system is dependent on the pilot and generator working properly. It is possible for the pilot to require cleaning yearly. Replace the pilot orifice if cleaning does not produce proper flame. Replacement on the generator alone is not recommended.
Vented Room Heaters - Hydraulic Thermostat (no electricity required)
RH-25, RH-35, RH-50, RH-65, CIBV-30
1. Pilot flames but goes out when the knob is released:
a. Pilot flame is not covering the thermocouple properly.
b. Defective thermocouple.
c. Defective magnet in the safety section of the valve.
2. Poor thermostat control:
a. Thermostat needs calibrating.
b. Defective thermostat section.
3. The pilot and the main burner go out after burning for a few minutes:
a. Improper venting of flue products. Relight and check for improper venting.
b. If vented properly, check the vent safety switch and replace if defective.
4. Using propane gas, if a whistling noise (resonation) occurs:
a. Close the air shutter on the main burner in order to reduce the amount of primary air (RH-25 and RH-35). Size the main burner orifice with a drill bit. For RH-25, use a #54 drill bit. For RH-35, use a #51 drill bit.
b. Screw the air adjustment bolt into the burner throat to eliminate the whistling noise (resonation) (RH-50 and RH-65).
c. Size the main burner orifice with a drill bit. For RH-50, use a #47 drill bit. For RH-65, use a #43 drill bit.
5. The flame lifts off the main burner:
a. Insufficient oxygen is being supplied. Check to make sure the vent cap is installed properly and is free of debris. Make sure that the vent system joints are tight and have no leaks.
Check to make sure that no material has been place at the burner base.
6. Liner and Insulated Liner:
When you install a vented heater into a masonry chimney, you must follow these steps:
a. The chimney must be lined and sized properly. Most masonry chimneys are over sized and absorb too much heat to be considered a proper vent. If you have any doubts, line the chimney with the right sized liner. It it’s unlined you must line it.
b. Use an insulated liner when the chimney is on the outside, three sides exposed to the weather, and there is no clay liner in the chimney. The insulation will help keep the flue gases warmer.
7. Insulated Vent Enclosure:
a. Vented heaters installed with the vent going directly to the outside and above the eaves can cause poor venting. The cold pipe will have a delay in proper venting and cause the fireplace heater to “shut off” by the vent safety switch. To prevent delayed venting as well as condensation of the flue products, an insulated enclosure is recommended.
b. Use type B 4” (102 mm) diameter vent pipe and maintain at lease one inch (25 mm) clearance to combustibles for RH-25, RH-35 and CIBV-30.
c. Use type B 5” (127 mm) diameter vent pipe and maintain at least one inch (25 mm) clearances to combustibles for RH-50 and RH-65.
Unvented Room Heaters (no electricity required)
Unvented Gas Logs (no electricity required)
Unvented Room Heaters (no electricity required)
VF-10, VF-20, VF-30, BF-10, BF-20, BF-30,
SR-6, SR-10(T), SR-18(T), SR-30(T),
CIVF-25, CIVF-25C, VFBL-30, VFBH-30, VFHD-32, VFHD-36, VFHS-20R, VFHS-20/10T
Unvented Gas Logs (no electricity required)
VFYM-16, VFYM-18, VFYM-24, VFYM-30
VFYR-16, VFYR-18, VFYR-24, VFYR-30
VFCM-25, VFCR-25
VFSV-16, VFSV-18, VFSV-24, VFSV-30
VFSM-18, VFSM-24, VFSM-30
VFSR-16, VFSR-18, VFSR-24, VFSR-30
An unvented room heater having an input rating of more than 6,000 Btu per hour shall not be installed in a bathroom.
An unvented room heater having an input rating of more than 10,000 Btu per hour shall not be installed in a bedroom or bathroom.
A floor stand cannot be used in a bathroom or bedroom installation. SR-6 must be wall mounted in a bathroom installation. SR-6, SR-10, SR-10T, VF-10 and BF-10 must be wall mounted in a bedroom installation.
1. Water Vapor: A By-Product of unvented room heaters:
Water vapor is a by-product of gas combustion. An unvented room heater produces approximately one (1) ounce (30ml) of water for every 1,000 Btu’s (.3 KW’s) of gas input per hour.
Unvented room heaters are recommended as supplemental heat (a room) rather than a primary heat source (an entire house). In most supplemental heat applications, the water vapor does not create a problem. In most applications, the water vapor enhances the low humidity atmosphere experienced during cold weather.
The following steps will help insure that water vapor does not become a problem:
a. Be sure the heater is sized properly for the application, including ample combustion air and circulation air.
b. If high humidity is experienced, a dehumidifier may be used to help lower the water vapor content of the air.
c. Do not use an unvented room heater as the primary heat source.
2. Provisions for adequate combustion and ventilation air
An unvented heater shall not be installed in a confined space or unusually tight construction unless provisions are provided for adequate combustion and ventilation air.
The National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1 defines a confined space as a space whose volume is less than 50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 m3 per kw) of the aggregate input rating of all appliances installed in that space. Rooms communicating directly with the space in which the appliances are installed, through openings not furnished with doors, are considered a part of the unconfined space.
The following example is for determining the volume of a typical area in which the SR-18 may be located and for determining if this area fits the definition of an unconfined space:
The maximum input of the SR-18 is 18,000 Btu per hour. Based on the 50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu per hour formula, the minimum area that is an unconfined space for installation of the SR-18 is 900 cubic feet, 50 cubic feet x 18 = 900 cubic feet. To determine the cubic feet of the area in which the SR-18 is to be installed, measure the length, width and height of the area. Example: The area measures 13 feet in length, 9 feet in width and 8 feet in height, the area is 936 cubic feet. The SR-18 can be installed in this unconfined space with no requirement to provide additional combustion and ventilation air.
3. When the igniter button is pressed, there is no spark at the ODS/pilot:
a. Igniter electrode positioned wrong – replace igniter.
b. Igniter electrode broken – replace igniter.
c. Igniter electrode not connected to igniter cable – reconnect igniter cable.
d. Igniter cable pinched or wet – free igniter cable if pinched by any metal or tubing. Keep igniter cable dry.
e. Broken igniter cable – replace igniter cable.
f. Bad Piezo igniter – replace Piezo igniter.
4. When the igniter button is pressed, there is a spark at the ODS/pilot, but no ignition:
a. Gas supply is turned off or manual shutoff valve is closed – turn on gas supply or open manual shutoff valve.
b. Control knob is not in PILOT position – turn the gas control knob to the PILOT position.
c. Control knob is not pressed in while in PILOT position – press in control knob while in pilot position.
d. Air in gas lines when installed – continue holding down control knob. Repeat igniting operation until air is removed.
e. Depleted gas supply – contact local gas company.
f. ODS/pilot is clogged – clean ODS/pilot or replace ODS/pilot assembly.
g. Gas regulator setting is not correct – replace gas regulator.
5. ODS/pilot lights but flame goes out when control knob is released:
a. Control knob not fully pressed in – press in control knob fully.
b. Control knob not pressed in long enough – after ODS/pilot lights, keep control knob pressed in for 30 seconds.
c. Safety interlock system has been triggered (thermostat models only) – Wait one minute for safety interlock system to reset. Repeat ignition operation.
d. Manual shutoff valve is not fully open – fully open manual shutoff valve.
e. Thermocouple connection is loose at the control valve – hand tighten until snug, then tighten ¼ turn more
f. Pilot flame is not touching thermocouple, which allows thermocouple to cool, causing pilot flame to go out. This problem could be caused by either 1) low gas pressure – contact your local gas company or 2) dirty or partially clogged ODS/pilot – clean ODS/pilot or replace ODS/pilot assembly.
g. Thermocouple damaged – replace thermocouple.
h. Control valve damaged – replace control valve.
6. Oxygen depletion sensor pilot:
When the pilot has a large yellow tip flame, clean the oxygen depletion sensor as follows:
a. Remove pilot from main burner assembly.
b. Apply air pressure through the holes in the pilot. This will blow out foreign materials such as dust, lint and spider webs.
WARNING: Never use needles, wires or similar cylindrical objects to clean the pilot to avoid damaging the calibrated ruby that controls the gas flow.
Direct Vent Fireplace (no electricity needed)
DVS-30, DVS-36, DVS-42
1. The pilot and main burner extinguish while in operation:
a. Inner vent pipe leaking exhaust gases back into the system. Check for leaks.
b. Glass too loose, gasket leaks in corners after usage. Be certain glass assembly is installed correctly and tighten screws.
c. Horizontal vent improperly pitched. The horizontal vent cap should slope down only enough to prevent any water from entering the unit. The maximum downwards slope is ¼ inch.
d. Bad thermopile or thermocouple. Replace if necessary.
e. Improper vent cap installation. Check for proper installation and freedom from debris or blockage.
2. Glass soot:
a. Flame impingement on logs. Reposition logs.
b. Debris around throat of main burner. Inspect the opening at the base of the main burner. It is imperative that NO material be placed in this opening.
3. Flame burns blue and lifts off the main burner:
a. Insufficient oxygen being supplied. Check to make sure vent cap is installed properly and free of debris. Make sure that the vent system joints are tight and have no leaks.
Check to make sure that no material has been placed at the main burner base.
Be sure glass is tightened properly on the unit, particularly on the top corners.
Vented Burners for gas log sets (no electricity required)
VSM-18, VSM-24, VSM-30
VSR-18, VSR-24, VSR-30
1. Pilot will not stay lit after carefully following lighting instructions for VLM Models:
a. Defective thermocouple. Check that the pilot flame impinges on the thermocouple. Clean and/or adjust the pilot for maximum flame impingement
- Ensure that the thermocouple connection at the gas valve is fully inserted and tight (hand tight plus ¼ turn). Faulty thermocouple if reading is below the specified minimum.
- Disconnect the thermocouple from the valve, place one millivolt meter lead wire on the tip of the thermocouple and the other meter lead wire on the thermocouple copper lead. Start the pilot and hold the valve knob in. If the millivolt reading is less than 15 millivolts, replace the thermocouple.
b. Defective valve
- If thermocouple is producing more than 15 millivolts, replace faulty valve.
2. Pilot will not stay lit after carefully following lighting instructions for VLR Models:
a. Defective pilot generator (thermopile), remote wall switch. Check pilot flame. Must impinge on the thermopile. Clean and or adjust pilot for maximum flame impingement on thermopile.
- Be sure the wire connections from the thermopile at gas valve terminals are tight and thermopile is fully inserted into the pilot bracket.
- One of the wall switch wires may be grounded. Remove wall switch wires from valve terminals if pilot now stays lit, trace wall switch wiring for ground. May be grounded to appliance or gas supply.
- Check thermopile with millivolt meter. Take reading at thermopile terminals of gas valve. Should read 325 millivolts minimum while holding valve knob depressed in pilot position and wall switch “off”. Replace faulty thermopile if reading is below specified minimum.
b. Defective automatic valve operator
- Turn valve knob to “on”. Place wall switch to “on”; millivolt meter should read greater than 100 millivolts. If the reading is okay and the burner does not come on, replace the gas valve.
Patio Heater
PHP-40, PHB-40
1. If pilot does not light by any means:
a. Check valve knob for being in the “Pilot” position.
b. Check pilot adjustment for being full open (counterclockwise to open).
c. If gas is available in the pilot tubing, the pilot orifice and/or the pilot burner is probably restricted by a spider web or debris. Clean the pilot assembly and relight.
2. If pilot does not remain on after releasing knob:
a. Follow instructions and hold the button down longer and harder.
b. Determine if the pilot flame extends past the thermocouple; if not, adjust or clean the pilot burner.
c. Replace the thermocouple if millivolts read less than 15 millivolts.
3. Burner housing screen glows unevenly:
a. Check the gas for adequate supply. Fill the LP tank if needed.
b. Determine if the heater is level.
c. Check the main burner orifice and the main burner for spiders or spider webs.
Outdoor Cooking Grill
SSG-36
1. Grill won’t light when the rotary igniter is turned:
a. With the gas turned off, remove the grill plates, ceramic plaques and the plaque rack. Turn the igniter knob clockwise to check the spark. You should see a spark jump from the tip of the igniter. If there is a spark, check the gas supply. Is the tank full? Is the line purged of air? Can you light the burner with a match?
b. Check air shutter adjustment, close as needed.
c. Do other burners light?
d. Check the orifice for blockage.
e. Is the igniter tip clean and free from debris?
f. Clean igniter tip.
2. Burner flame is yellow or orange:
a. Check the burner inlet for obstructions.
b. Check the air shutter for proper adjustment.
c. Check for spiders, spider webs and debris.
3. Low heat with control knob set on “high”.
a. Is the fuel hose bent or kinked?
b. Is there an adequate gas supply?
c. If there is only one burner that appears low, does the orifice or burner need cleaning?
d. Is the air shutter too far open or closed?
e. Is the gas supply or gas pressure low?
f. Has the grill been preheated for at least 10 minutes?
4. The smell of gas with flames appearing yellow or the gas grill does not reach temperature and heats unevenly:
a. Check for spiders or insects.
b. Spiders and insects can nest in the burner of this or any grill and cause a disruption in the flow of gas from the burner. This is dangerous and can cause a fire behind the valve cover damaging the grill and making it unsafe to operate. You should inspect the burners periodically or immediately if any of these conditions occur or persist.
5. The burners make popping noises:
a. Check the air shutter adjustment.
b. Check the burners for clogged ports.
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